The Mothershuckers Oyster Cart in Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn
Open-air oyster carts used to be an integral part of New York City’s street food scene. Today, they are all but extinct. Benjamin “Moody” Harney created the Mothershuckers Oyster Cart in 2019 to change all of that.
A few weekends ago, I decided to do something out of the ordinary: leave the house. I put on my mask, packed a hand sanitizer, grabbed my camera, and headed to Bed-Stuy, or Bedford-Stuyvesant to the uninitiated. It was a hot, humid, and cloudless day. Not exactly what I would consider prime al fresco oyster-eating weather, but that didn’t matter. I was determined to see The Real Mothershuckers Oyster Cart for myself.
Oyster Carts of New York City
Did you know that oysters were one of New York City's original street foods? Just imagine: standing at a street corner in Lower Manhattan on a crisp fall day slurping a dozen fresh, raw oysters from an oyster cart. Peddling oysters alongside hot buns and peanuts was a normal thing in New York City back in the late 1700s and 1800s. Today, it's a rarity. There is only one pushcart set up in all of Brooklyn: Benjamin "Moody" Harney's Mothershuckers Oyster Cart outside of Eugene & Co. on the corner of Tompkins Avenue and Jefferson Avenue. Inspired by the story of Thomas Downing, a.k.a. the Oyster King of New York, Moody started his business in the fall of 2019. You can see him in action every weekend from 2-7 PM. During off-hours, Moody offers private oyster catering and classes.
Getting to Mothershuckers Oyster Cart
When I arrived in front of Eugene & Co., there were about a dozen 20- and 30-something-year-olds sitting and standing at least 6-ft away from Moody's oyster cart, where he was working away. Many of them were hanging out in the shade, sipping on boozy beverages from plastic to-go bags. I wasn't sure what to do, so I stood back and observed for a while.
A stash of freshly-harvested local oysters glistened under crushed ice in the front of the Mothershuckers oyster cart. The oyster of the day happened to be the Maris Stella, an Atlantic native oyster that's meticulously grown by Sixto Portillo near Blue Point, NY. Behind the oyster display was a compact, raw service work station. Ice, lemon, sauces, and freshly minced herbs huddled around a large white cutting board. The meltwater rapidly drained off into a bucket near the cart's front wheel. Every so often, someone would approach the cart to whisper an order into Moody's ear. He'd nod without a breaking a beat in shucking the prior order.
Creating Oyster Culture in Bedford-Stuyvesant
Before launching Mothershuckers, Moody honed his shucking skills working at various oyster bars in the city. Moody grew up in Bed-Stuy and recognized his old stomping grounds as the perfect place to set up shop.
"Bed-Stuy is the heart of the culture in Brooklyn. I don't think anywhere else is better for the diversity of customer base and cultural enrichment I'm experiencing for my first year of business."
When I finally approached Moody's station and introduced myself (we had been communicating through Instagram), he instantly made me feel welcome. "I got you!” He smiled. As he worked to fulfill other orders, which were coming in at a rapid pace now, as I tried to make a little small talk. I quickly discovered that making small talk is tricky with a mask on and a DSLR in hand. 🤦🏻♀️
Oysters that Come Dressed to Impress
After a short while, Moody sent out two plates of oysters. He insisted that one was just for eating, and the other was for photographing (and then eating), but I felt both were great examples to share! For to-stay orders, the oysters arrive on paper plates with a bit of ice. For to-go orders, they're packed in brown paper takeout boxes. Many guests would purchase both—first to slurp on the spot and then others to take home.
Unless if you tell Moody otherwise, all of the oysters seem to come pre-dressed. Although many of you know that I'm a purist, I thoroughly enjoyed slurping these Maris Stellas garnished. The cocktail-mignonette-parsley toppings did not overwhelm the oyster's merroir one bit and were quite the visual treat.
He also showcased his special oyster treatment that featured a bit of toasted nori, pickled apple, and yuzu (I think). It tasted great on the Maris Stella, but I think it would also work quite well on a creamy West Coast oyster.
Overall Impression of Mothershuckers
My favorite thing about the Mothershuckers Oyster Cart is how intimate the experience feels even though the whole transaction is very public! Moody would walk out from behind the cart to hand the oysters to you himself. He explained to all of his guests what's what, and it's clear that many guests are repeat customers. I would go back for round two, and also check out more of the neighborhood the next time.
Thank you, Moody, for doing what you do and for hooking up a fellow oyster lover!
Mothershuckers Oyster Cart @ Eugene & Co.
Every weekend 2-7 PM
397 Tompkins Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11221
[map]
Follow @therealmothershuckers on Instagram.